Atoofa Siddiqui Travelogue

 Revised - travelogue means out of city visit

Atoofa Siddiqui

2k18/MC/36     BS Part 3-Semester 6

Revised Travelogue- English

Sir Sohail Sangi

Travelogue- Visit to Meeran Ja Quba

 

While living in Hyderabad since start, I have spent all my childhood and adulthood here. Yet, I was unaware of its historical sites, let alone history. The mystery of Pacco Qilo (Pakka Qila) and Kaccho Qilo (Kacha Qila) made me search on internet about it. And the results left me excited and curious to visit the last Muslim holders of these two royal fortresses buried in “Meeran Ja Quba”, located in Hirabad Hyderabad.

History reveals that Mirs were the last rulers of Sindh before British rule and buried in a great number together at a place. Actually the area named as Hirabad (Diamond Town) because its inhabitants were mainly bankers and jewelers of ancient time. That is why the Talpurs selected it as a favorable place to build their mausoleums over here when they were alive. This fact sounded astounding to me and forced me to have a visit there. Along with friends and family, I made up my mind to explore the site.

Basically, there are two ways to reach at Meeran Ja Quba. The first one is the main road that will lead you to the place outside from the city. The other way leading to Hirabad is from the inner side of the city by enjoying all the cultural activities and famous sides of Hyderabad. I planned to take the inner road.

Before taking the road, we were better aware of the inner city condition that is quite noisy and crowded, so we decided to book an auto-rickshaw for all of us instead of car. Before reaching the destination, we crossed long narrow market lanes, Sarfaraz baba mazar, Navalrai Market Clock Tower (Ghanta Ghar), Liberty and Bone Care hospital.

(Pic 1- Entrance gate)

Unfortunately, after reaching there it appeared to me that the site is under-construction on the renovation order. At first, the watchman didn’t let us in without having any approval letter. But, the site view from eastern gate compelled me to request him. That’s what I did and made him agree to allow us in there. On my first impression, it was like a graveyard with quite disciplined graves until I heard some history and site-related information from watchman. While roaming around with us, he informed me about the engraved Mirs and their times.

Mirs of Sindh were basically from Talpur dynasty and were Baloch ethnically. Their ancestors had served the Kalhoras till 1775. The order of Kalhora ruler to kill the Chief of Talpurs, Mir Bahram Khan resulted in turning the Mirs against Kalhoras. After defeating the Kalhoras in the battle of Halani (1783), Mirs got control over Sindh and started ruling in the form of “Char Yaar” that is “rule of four friends” until the British conquest of Sindh in 1843.

Entering from the back eastern gate, the first great mausoleum that caught my sight at least for 5 minutes with amazement was of Mir Nur Muhammad Khan Talpur, the second last Talpur ruler of Hyderabad. The tomb was greatest in size with old tiles that have lost their colors and beauty due to no maintenance with time but now is under construction. And very next to it was the tomb of his wife that was a small burial chamber with simple design and white boundaries.

(Pic 2- Tomb of Mir Nur and his wife)

Moving ahead led me to other great mausoleum, where 4 Mirs are entomed including Mir Nasir Khan Talpur , Mir Shahdad Khan Talpur and Mir Hussain Khan Talpur while the fourth one was unknown by the guard. Beside it, there was another small mausoleum having infants buried there.

(Pic 3- Tomb of 4 Mirs)

The tombs of Mirs are now greatly being furnished by new beautiful tiles with glyptic art and mesmerized design with umbrella-shaped domes. But the tombs of females and infants of Mirs were smaller in size, having white colors usually and simple verses of Quran engraved on. They were quite undecorated than the structure of Mirs’ tombs.

(Pic 4- New tiles of tomb and women’s tombs)

Between these greatly and beautifully constructed mausoleums of men and women, there were some extra graves out there in the way to the crypts. But they were unmarked and unknown. For these unnamed graves, the only identity for men and women was that the graves with brown color were of women and the ones with white were of men.

(Pic 5- Unknown men’s and women’s graves)

The site that I visited had just 4 Mirs buried there while the rest were women, their infants and companions. Standing there and observing around made me see another great tomb of Mir Karam Ali Khan from the eastern site. This thing made me curious that why the Mirs are engraved separately but not together.

Upon inquiring, the guard told us that this site” Meeran Ja Quba” is actually divided into two parts, the eastern and the western one. The eastern site that I visited was government-owned and opened for public having just some 4 Mirs, women, children and consorts buried here.

Most of the Mirs are buried in the western site including the great Mir Karam Ali Khan Talpur. That site is still in the hands of Mirs and they do not let the common people allow visiting casually. Their tombs have been recently well-built by the owners with new and colorful tile work.

Though I didn’t visit the western site due to being closed but the view of great dome of Mir Karam Ali Khan and its colors made me imagine the beautiful infrastructure of other tombs out there.

As the eastern site is under-construction for now, the caretaker also showed us the material that the labors are currently using in re-making the great tombs of Mirs. Out of multiple stones, the beauty of glass-type stone Chiroli made me fascinated and hypnotized for a moment.

(Pic 6- Chiroli)

According to the description given by guard, this stone is shiny and quite easy to break and burn. They were using this stone to fix the marbles. The stone is first burned and then crushed into powder form. Then it is used with Chuna (Lime) and Sang-e-Jarahat (soapstone) as a material that fixes the marbles and tiles firmly.  

(Pic 7- Sang e Jarahat)

There were some small flower beds too, growing plants of different types for making the site green and worth-seeing. But the grief of not visiting the inner side of Mirs’ tombs and seeing their graves broke my heart. The expectations were high before having a visit. But the experience left some sorrow in me for not visiting this outstanding historical site properly due to the on-going construction. With having a desire to see the tombs from inside, I went out but the guard assured me to open this historical site completely for the visitors after once being re-inaugurated soon.

(Pic 8- Flower beds)

As I stepped out and turned left to see around, the heaps of garbage annoyed me. I found another reason for my unhappiness that was seeing this amazing historical site in such a rot condition. The place has been encroached in and around and the people have settled here and there between these two eastern and western sides of Meeran Ja Quba. When I got a glimpse of them littering around, it made me feel that they have no respect for the dead though they are not aware about the history and these great rulers of the time.

But I must recommend the other people to pay a little homage to Mirs by visiting them at least once after the re-inauguration will be done because the site is worth-watching for those who got an interest in history, rulers, architecture and design. The tile work is mind blowing, the designs are incredible and of course the peace on site is worth-feeling for those who are seeking some calmness in their engaging lives.

Atoofa Siddiqui

BS Part 3- Semester 6  

2k18/MC/36

Travelogue- English

Sir Sohail Sanghi (mistake in spelling of teacher’s name…….

Travelogue- Visit to Meeran Ja Cubba Quba

While living in Hyderabad since start, I have spent all my childhood and adulthood here. Yet, I was unaware of its historical sites, let alone history. The mystery of Pacco Qilo (Pakka Qila) and Kaccho Qilo (Kacha Qila) made me search on internet about it. And the results left me excited and curious to visit the last Muslim holders of these two royal fortresses buried in “Meeran Ja Cubba”, located in Hirabad Hyderabad.

History reveals that Mirs were the last rulers of Sindh before British rule and buried in a great number together at a place. Actually the area named as Hirabad (Diamond Town) because its inhabitants were mainly bankers and jewelers of ancient time. That is why the Talpurs selected it as a favorable place to build their mausoleums over here. This fact sounded astounding to me and forced me to have a visit there. Along with friends and family, I made up my mind to explore the site.

Basically, there are two ways to reach at Merran Ja Cubba. The first one is the main road that will lead you to the place outside from the city. The other way leading to Hirabad is from the inner side of the city by enjoying all the cultural activities and famous sides of Hyderabad. I planned to take the road from inside.

Before taking the road, we were better aware of the inner city condition that is quite noisy and crowded, so we decided to book an auto-rickshaw for all of us instead of car. [[Thus experiencing the long narrow market lanes, we passed Ghani baba mazar, Garrison, Mobile market, Sarfaraz baba mazar, Navalrai Market Clock Tower (Ghanta Ghar), Liberty, Bone Care hospital and then finally reached at our destination place called “Tombs of Talpur Mirs of Sindh”.]] most of part of this sentence is extra 

            (Pic 1- Entrance gate)

Unfortunately, after reaching there it appeared to me that the site is under-construction. At first, the watchman didn’t let us in without having any approval letter. But, the site view from Eastern gate compelled me to request him. That’s what I did and made him agree to allow us in there. On my first impression, it was like a graveyard with quite disciplined graves until I heard some history and site-related information from watchman. While roaming around with us, he informed me about the engraved Mirs and their times.

Entering from the back Eastern (this is not proper noun)gate, the first great mausoleum that caught my sight at least for 5 minutes with amazement was of Mir Nur Muhammad Khan Talpur. The tomb was greatest in size with old tiles that have lost their colors and beauty due to no maintenance with time but now is under construction. And very next to it was the tomb of his wife that was a small burial chamber with simple design and white boundaries. [Who were these Mirs? Just naming makes no sense. Should bit describe or relate some story, event, etc  some history reference would have made it more readable]

            (Pic 2- tomb of Mir Nur and his wife)

Moving ahead led me to other great mausoleum, where 4 Mirs are entomed including Mir Nasir Khan Talpur , Mir Shahdad Khan Talpur and Mir Hussain Khan Talpur while the fourth one was unknown by the guard. Beside it, there was another small mausoleum having infants buried there. [who built, when etc? I think they are now renovated by Sindh Heritage Endowment Fund, if so this should be mentioned]

            (Pic 3- tomb of 4 Mirs)

The tombs of Mirs are now greatly being furnished by new beautiful tiles with glyptic art and mesmerized design with umbrella-shaped domes. But the tombs of females and infants of Mirs were smaller in size, having white colors usually and simple verses of Quran engraved on. They were quite undecorated than the structure of Mirs’ tombs.

            (Pic 4- new tiles of tomb and women’s tomb)

Between these greatly and beautifully constructed mausoleums of men and women, there were some extra graves out there in the way to the crypts. But they were unmarked and unknown. For these unnamed graves, the only identity for men and women was that the graves with brown color were of women and the ones with white were of men.

            (Pic 5- unknown men’s and women’s graves)

The site that I visited had just 4 Mirs buried there while the rest were women, their infants and companions. Standing there and observing around made me see another great tomb of Mir Karam Ali Khan from the Eastern site. This thing made me curious that why the Mirs are engraved separately but not together.

Upon inquiring, the guard told us that this site” Meeran Ja Cubba” is actually divided into two parts, the Eastern and the Western one. The Eastern site that I visited was government-owned and opened for public having just some 4 Mirs, women, children and consorts buried here.

Most of the Mirs are buried in the Western site including the great Mir Karam Ali Khan Talpur. That site is still in the hands of Mirs and they do not let the common people allow visiting casually. Their tombs have been recently well-built by the owners with new and colorful tile work.

Though I didn’t visit the western site due to being closed but the view of great dome of Mir Karam Ali Khan and its colors made me imagine the beautiful infrastructure of other tombs out there.

As the Eastern site is under-construction for now, the caretaker also showed us the material that the labors are currently using in re-making the great tombs of Mirs. Out of multiple stones, the beauty of glass-type stone Chiroli made me fascinated and hypnotized for a moment.

(Pic 6- Chiroli)

According to the description given by guard, this stone is shiny and quite easy to break and burn. They were using this stone to fix the marbles. The stone is first burned and then crushed into powder form. Then it is used with Chuna (Lime) and Sang-e-Jarahat (soapstone) as a material that fixes the marbles and tiles firmly.  

(Pic 7- Sang e Jarahat)

There were some small flower beds too, growing plants of different types for making the site green and worth-seeing. But the grief of not visiting the inner side of Mirs’ tombs and seeing their graves broke my heart. The expectations were high before having a visit. But the experience left some sorrow in me for not visiting this outstanding historical site properly due to the on-going construction. With having a desire to see the tombs from inside, I went out but the guard assured me to open this historical site completely for the visitors after once being re-inaugurated soon.

            (Pic 8- flower beds)

As I stepped out and turned left to see around, the heaps of garbage annoyed me. I found another reason for my unhappiness that was seeing this amazing historical site in such a rot condition. The place has been encroached in and around and the people have settled here and there between these two Eastern and Western sides of Meeran Ja Cubba. When I got a glimpse of them littering around, it made me feel that they have no respect for the dead though they are not aware about the history and these great rulers of the time.

But I must recommend the other people to pay a little homage to Mirs by visiting them at least once after the re-inauguration will be done because the site is worth-watching for those who got an interest in history, rulers, architecture and design. The tile work is mind blowing, the designs are incredible and of course the peace on site is worth-feeling for those who are seeking some calmness in their engaging lives.

Practical work carried under supervision of Sir Sohail Sangi 

Media & Communication Studies, University of Sindh