Hassan Sohail Travelogue

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Hassan Sohail

2K18/MC/61

                                                            A Day To Remember

 

6am, lights were dim, Azaan was going on with the message of 'leave the bed and come to success'. Ruefully, few people heard it. Meanwhile, I was struggling to overcome the sleep's web. Minutes of struggling pay the price and I was able to stand up properly without any external help. I took a shufti at the clock, it staggered me 'cause I was running behind on my estimated schedule. So, I went hotfooted to the john. Afterwards, l soaped my face; brushed me teeth. Then, promptly clad clothes, combed hair, tightened shoes and wore the rucksack.  

 To where — an excursion to Thatta, previously known as the medieval captivity of Sindh. It was also called the 'Jewel of Sindh and 'Gateway of Islam' by some. Being a coastal city, it attracted the attention of various conquerors, which served as the seat of power for three successive dynasties.

 Time was running fast; in a bid to reach Thatta in time with my friends, I have to skip my breakfast  — which I did. Instead, took a swig of pints. The place was two klick away from my abode, where we agreed to set off.

 I'd accompanied my acquaintance who lives in the neighbourhood. He was also joining us to the trip. We hoofed it to the place. After minutes of fast-paced trod, we arrived. A van was parked with full dark-shade windows. Much to my chagrin, it was a non-AC. To compound it further, there was a delay for some reasons.

 After some dilly-dally, the driver started the engine, we instantly hopped on the bus. As I entered into the van, I saw the seats were distinctly different from each other and were vertically placed from the surface.

 I chose to be seated on the window's side and from there I saw good, bad and ugly things. On our way, the lush greenery and sky-long trees were the main attraction to watched from the window. But it was cut short, as the bus was going on the average speed of 30 kph, the picturesque vistas was about to end. Since then, I have seen heaps of wastes with a size of large vessels.

 Later on, a signboard was put up by the workers to showed the road was under construction. Noting it, the driver, if not abruptly, accelerated the bus. Then he veered the bus to the left and followed a narrowed, tortuous road. The roadway was shabby; filled with potholes. The driver rather impressively managed to crossed it. After crossing the crummy road; getting on a fine one, the outskirts of the Thatta was started to appear.

 Giving my fondness for ancient sites, my eyes were set on two historical gems: Shah Jahan Mosque and Makli Necropolis. But it has to wait. But the 'aquaphile,' loosely called water enthusiast, turned our focus to Keenjhar Lake, while locals dubbed it Malik lake.

 The lake was vast and pristine. It was already a popular tourist spot. But there is a warning for feisty trippers — not to plunge yourself deep in the lake, as the lake gained notoriety for drowning hundreds every year. Recently, a overloaded boat was capsized in the lake, killing everyone on board. We paid heed.

 Beside, the country’s largest freshwater lake has lot more to offer. Exhibit A: Tomb of Noor Jam Tamachi. A low-caste woman who besotted ruler of Sindh named Jam Tamachi in the 14th century. The folklore was mentioned in the famed, 'Shah Jo Risalo' by Shah Abdul Latif Bhittai. Though, the authenticity of this story is questionable yet it resonates in the hearts of Sindhis.

 Afterwards, we set out to reached our keen place: Shah Jahan Mosque. Over 300 year old mosque built in the reign of Mughal emperor Shah Jahan. It was well-documented then- crown prince Shah Jahan had rebelled against his father, emperor Jahangir. In a bid to sought refuge he chose Thatta. Sindhis, well-know for their hospitality, also impressed the refractory Prince — who in return constructed the mosque to mark the generosity of Thatta people.

 The mosque was situated in a low-income neighbourhood of the city. As we reached at the gate, we were surrounded by vagrant beggars screeching for alms. After sorting it out, my eyes sat on a mesmerising garden which led straight to the mosque. It completely hypnotised me for a moment.

 The 17th century mosque is a fusion of Mogul and Turkish architectural elements making it a epitome of Mughal architecture. The mosque boasts 93 domes, (the largest number in Pakistan) with 33 arches. It made of red bricks and blue-coloured tiles.

 However, there is a one more ingenuity about the structure to marvel at. The mosque does not have a single minaret. It was designed and later built in a way, if a person speaking on one end of the mosque can be heard on the other end.

 Sadly, the maintenance of the mosque was inadequate. Named in the list of UNESCO World Heritage site in '93. Now, the broken tiles hosted sparrow nests and domes were left to spiders to covered it with their webs.

 Leaving from Shah Jahan mosque and reaching to Makli Necropolis has an anecdote between it. The story starts with apparently a mosque keeper; sporting scruffy beard and worn-out clothes. He was tending our shoes for which he charged. Later, he demands a sum which we didn't agree. So, he threatened to hexed us. Instantly, an acquaintance chimed in, "do whatever you want to do," he thundered. Ruefully as superstitions runs deep in our society, we fell for it too and paid exactly what he demanded for.

 From a fifteen minutes drives away from Shah Jahan mosque lies another UNESCO World Heritage site called Makli Necropolis. A home to approximately half or a million graves. Stretched over more than 10sqkm, the residents of this graveyards included kings, queens, saints and scholars.

 

When in 14th century, the Samma Dynasty made Thatta their capital leading the necropolis rose to prominence.

 During my visit, I have seen some enthralling tombs, canopies, enclosures and mosques. But what stood apart were the tombs of Dewan Shurfa Khan and Isa Khan Tarkhan II, who died in 1638 and

1644 respectively. Both were the Mughal governors in Thatta.

 Ultimately, the delight trip came to an end on a good note. 

Practical work carried under supervision of Sir Sohail Sangi 

Media & Communication Studies, University of Sindh


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